Luanda, the capital of Angola, located on the Atlantic coast in southern Africa, surprised me when I arrived here in June 2025. I was greeted by a modern city characterised by high-rise buildings and remnants of colonial architecture. The well-restored Fortaleza de Sao Miguel, built in 1634, towers above the town. The people I met were friendly, open and self-confident. Among them are a number of white Angolans, descendants of former Portuguese settlers who have lived here for many generations.